January 2009 Archives

I will confess now that my stereo gear at home is ultra sub-par bargain basement stuff; but I try to do the best that I can with it.

After working at a dealer myself that sold VPI and Rega tables, Conrad-Johnson, etc – I wanted an at least mildly respectable turntable.

So, a few years back I picked up a B-stock Pro-Ject table and fit it with a pretty nice GRADO MM cartridge; and left it at that.

My garbage A/V receiver doesn’t have a phono stage; so I picked up the ultimate of all ultimate pile of crap phono stages.

The MCM Electronics 40-630 Piece Of Crap phono stage:

widely available on eBay for anywhere around $10-$20; you get exactly what you pay for.

Although I do not own the appropriate gear to measure it and tell you; I can say that the RIAA EQ curve is VASTLY off base; the sound stage is ultra flat and narrow. Everything is very brittle sounding and it sounds almost like your records have been placed under running water while using this phono stage.

But the most noticeable flaw with this phono stage is the INSANE 60hz hum. This unit is A/C powered and has the transformer inside of its chassis.

The hum is so bad that the reciever has to be turned up quite loud to get over it; and in many cases the hum just drowns out any recorded sound on the record.

So; time to rip it apart.

After unfolding two tabs; the bottom plate can be slid right off

Just look at that quality!!!! And the “Fully isolated” transformer is a piece of state-of-the-art wonderment!

We are going to solve the hum problem by replacing the transformer with a DC Battery power supply.

After checking it out with my multimeter I determined that the transformer was putting out a somewhat fluctuating voltage range of 15.5VDC-17VDC.

Awesome; the solution is easily within reach at this point.

Proceed to remove the transformer – it is mounted to a plate that is held to the chassis with two screws.

There is the offending pile of crap:

Make sure that it goes DIRECTLY into the trash

All in all; still a pretty low quality piece – but lots of room

(with the “isolation plate” back in place)

And; the ultimate solution to the problem.

I had this stuff on hand; but if you wanted to purchase it – here is what I used:

-(2x) “Heavy Duty” 9V Battery Snap Connector Radio Shack Part Number 270-324 (pkg. of 5)
-(1x) SPST Mini Toggle Switch – Radio Shack Part Number 275-634
-(2x) 9V Alkaline Enercell Batteries – Radio Shack Part Number 23-463 (pkg of 2 batteries)

…Actually; if you haven’t got this stuff on hand – it may not be worth purchasing – since the parts would probably cost you about $15 – and for a grand total of $35 you could probably find a better phono stage than this MCM Electronics piece. :)

The rest is fairly self explanatory; I’ll let the pics talk…

Test fit

Cut the pigtails to the appropriate length:

Mr. Dremel:

Test fit switch (and cover hole for A/C cable with electrical tape):

Solder and shrink wrap the battery connectors:

Add a Positive lead to go from the phono stage to the battery power switch:

Connect battery pigtail negative lead to phono stage:

Solder switch in place:

Cover the switch and bottoms of the batteries with tape to protect against shorting; then put it all into the chassis:

Put the bottom cover back on it and make appropriate labeling for the new switch:

I also marked the date of when I installed the current set of batteries on the side of the chassis.

Finished!!

And the results…

Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY!!

The hum is GONE the phono stage is 100% silent!!

Additionally; the soundstage is wider and not quite as flat; the phono stage is now also a great deal warmer; instruments no longer sound like they are buried – and the EQ curve sounds like it is a WHOLE lot closer to where it should be.

Swapping out the transformer for batteries isn’t going to make this shining turd sound like a $50000 phono stage; but it WILL make it sound kind of like a $50.00 phono stage.

I am almost positive that replacing the crappy components with some quality components will make a MASSIVE difference – but I don’t see myself actually investing any money into this thing.

Given my average listening habits and the current draw of the transistors I would estimate proposed battery life somewhere around 1YR. But – I think that I am going to be buying a new phono stage tomorrow anyway; so I don’t think it matters.

So; the mailman (actually a woman in my case) just dropped of the mail.
Inside was a package that I had been expecting from China.
Why is our mail in the USA so boring?

Oh, neat – he even threw in a small tube of the worlds worst thermal paste. :)

It IS pre-coated with Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste though!! Just remove the film and attach the heatsink!! (I think that I’ll clean it with some acetone and apply my own thank you; though the thought was nice. )

If anyone was curious – the CPU is:

Athlon XP 3000+ Socket 462 AXDA3000DKV4E

If for some reason anyone wants to see these bigger; here you go:

Flickr set

So; after seeing my last project my coworker asked me if there was anything that he could do with his old G3 Tray load iMac that he had sitting in his basement.

He said that it would be nice to be able to use something more modern on it; even if it was slow. And that his ultimate intent was to put it at the end of his bar in his basement and have it appear as one of those touch screen gaming machines; but actually control some light automation, etc…

Well; that all sounds pretty neat – but I’ll have to follow up with you guys if he actually does any of that. :)

I told him that I could handle a bit of the updating of the hardware for him by covering the standard ground of RAM upgrades, Hard drive upgrades, OS upgrades and Overclocking.

Those of us who have been around as long as I have have probably seen all of this stuff before – but here I’ll try to put it all together in one post.

He came back from lunch and dropped the machine on my desk. A nice, Lime Tray load iMac; and CLEAN too – like it had been hidden in the closet since it was purchased.

I took it home and fired it up to find a nice little time capsule. Revision B iMac, G3 333MHz, 64MB of RAM and a 6gig hard drive running System 8.6!!!!!!

So first things first – lets shut it down and get to overclocking the CPU. He was lucky for having a 333MHz CPU; every one of those that i have ever worked with has ALWAYS successfully overclocked to 400MHz

We begin by removing the logic board “sled” from the machine. To do this, undo the one phillips head screw on the bottom of the iMac and pop off the bottom panel. Once the bottom panel has been removed you will see two phillips head screws along the back edge of the logic board sled. Remove those. Then there are three cables connected to the logic board assembly. Use your screwdriver to loosen the video cable; and just unclip the other two by hand. Then you can slide out the trayand you are left with this:

to get to the CPU card lift off the metal “screen” covering it

lift up the retaining clip:


and GENTLY lift out the CPU card:



The CPU card also holds the system RAM. some of these iMacs shipped with only 32MB of RAM. The STATED physical RAM limitation is 256MB; achieved by using two 128MB RAM chips. However; a FEW mythological units WILL support 512MB of RAM if you get lucky. (Supposedly the 256MB modules will be recognized at their full capacity if they are CL2)

The Tray Load iMacs require old style low density (more chips on the ram module) PC100 RAM. High density RAM will only be recognized at half of its capacity. (i.e. a 128mb high density RAM module will show up as a 64mb module)

Now; back to the task of overclocking. The CPU speed is set by the Processor clock PLL; which is configured by the placement of the resistors R117, R118, R119, R120, R121, R122, R123 and R124 – located on the back of the CPU module


Below is a table showing what CPU speed the various resistor placements will result in:

CPUClock PLLConfig R117 R118 R119 R120 R121 R122 R123 R124 Note
233MHz x3.5 x S S S S x x x Rev.A & B
266MHz x4 x S x S S x S x Rev.C
300MHz x4.5 S S S x x x x S
333MHz x5 S S x S x x S x Rev.D
366MHz x5.5 S x x S x S S x DANGER!
400MHz x6 S x S S x S x x DANGER!
433MHz x6.5 S x S x x S x S DANGER!
466MHz x7 x S x x S x S S DANGER!
500MHz x7.5 S x x x x S S S DANGER!
533MHz x8 x x S S S S x x DANGER!
  • S:Mount Resister
  • x:Remove Resister

Obviously; this table is NOT confirmation that the little iMacs will run stable; or even at ALL at some of these speeds – and making these modifications should be done at your own risk. I personally have never had success at anything over 400MHz.

So; since this machine was already a 333MHz model; that means that I needed to move two resistors – i needed to move R118 over to R119; and R123 over to R122 to achieve 400MHz

Its quite simple actually; just unsolder the resistors from their current position; and then resolder them back into the appropriate place. The only challenge is their size (however; this size seems like a luxury after having done a few G4 Mac Mini overclocks!!)

For size reference; that is one of the resistors on the table surface – between the penny and the screwdriver tip:


After moving the resistors around; I threw the machine back together temporarily and fired up System 8.6; opened the System Profiler to confirm my work was successful:


I also checked the iMacs firmware revision at this point – in order to install OSX a tray load iMac MUST have iMac Firmware Update 1.2 – or very bad things will happen!

As this machine was already at Firmware 1.2 – I set about to swap out the hard drive and install the software.

I happened to find an old; unused 20GB drive in my parts drawer – so into the machine it went!! Another note to remember is that tray load iMacs are on the very edge of the “Old World” Macs; and as such The System software MUST be within the first 8 gigs of the drive – if the system sftware happens to stray elsewhere on the drive OSX may not start at all; and you’ll have problems with classic as well. (the LARGEST physical drive that a tray load iMac will support is 128 gig)

To avoid this problem it is advised to slice your hard drive in to two partition – and to be even safer – make the first partition SMALLER than 8 gigs – in this case I made the first partition 7 gigs; and the second partition for the remainder of the drive. Also in the installer make sure to check the “Install system 9 drivers” or whatever the tick box says on the partitioning screen. If you neglect to do this you wont be able to boot to classic – or install classic support under OSX.

Now my intention was to install Tiger (OS X 10.4) onto this system – the only trick to that is that Tiger is not officially supported on the Tray Load G3 iMacs; and the installer will halt and not let you install Tiger on this machine; the additional caveat is that Tiger 10.4 came on DVD (a 4 cd installer set was available through special order direct from Apple; but it is not common to stumble across in the wild) – For these reasons 10.3 Panther is typically recomennded for Tray load iMacs.

Although there are a few ways to get Tiger onto an unsupported Macintosh. One way; which is useful if you have the Tiger CD’s is through the use of a nice piece of software called XPostFacto – which will bypass the installer checks and let you install.

The quicker; easier method which I went with was to take the bare drive and install it into my heavily modified G4 Sawtooth tower (equipped with a Dual Layer DVD burner) and install straight off of the retail Tiger DVD with no issues. :)

So; after the install process there I dropped the drive back into the iMac and fired it up!!


Also; I had dug through my RAM stash and was able to turn up a 64MB stick and a 128MB stick. :D

Then I copied the entire contents of his old drive into the large “Data” partition on his new drive through the use of a USB bridge that I picked up from NewEgg.com



Then I moved along and hooked up a DVD drive o install Classic (System 9.2.2) and any other ancillary software that I was going to put on the system


Proceeded to run system update to patch the system up to 10.4.11 and proceeded to bask in the glory of my efforts:

Ancient Appleworks in Tiger:

Bugdom anyone? (runs like POOP – not playable – under Classic inside of OSX – you can only do so much with 6MB of VRAM)

And; so there it is!! …Its still pretty slow; but its workable for web browsing; and listening to iTunes, etc.

Sorry for yet another long post; but I think that alot of this information was slipping away into the “Forgotten Realms”

hope someone gets something from this!